Caught between a loop of travels, I found myself on an unplanned stop in Bologna for a weekend. Despite the popularity of this place, I never really opted to visit and just because I didn’t, it got back to me on the face as if saying “Hey! Look at what you’ve been missing!!!”.
Bologna is not as famous as Rome, Milan, or Florence and is definitely underrated.
I arrived by train through Bologna Centrale Station and as I went deeper into the city, I noticed how red it was. I understood later that Bologna had its nicknames - La Dotta, La Grassa, and La Rossa.
La Dotta (The Learned), because University of Bologna has its home here. It is the oldest in Europe (also one of the oldest universities in the world) dating back to 1088 which is consistently ranking first in Italy.
La Grassa (The Fat) for all the sumptuous Bolognese cuisine, tortellini instantly became my favorite! 😋. And obviously, pasta Bolognese came from here.
La Rossa (The Red) for everything red, the buildings, artworks, but on more serious note, for the city’s historical connection to anti-fascism and communism. It has been home to Italian Resistance Movement from the past.
Okay, less than 24 hours of stay, what did I do? Hmm… I walked… a lot! 😁
First, a glimpse from my hotel…
Entry way to my abode, Albergo delle Drapperie. Frescoes, love them! 😍
This hotel is just in the middle of the historical centre giving easy access to everything by just walking.
My room was on the topmost floor and this is my view.
…and the view from my bathroom where you can see Asinelli peeping through (that tall tower).
After checking in, I asked the concierge for restaurant recommendations and like the usual helpful people that they are, he gave me the map with the directions going to this old traditional restaurant. The name is Ristorante Teresina which I wasn't able to find (my fault), so I ate at the first trattoria I saw and got my tortellini al ragù which was soooo good that I ate too much and my love for it immediately showed up as belly fat! 😁
Then I headed to the centre. The main square is known as Piazza Maggiore where the Basilica of San Petronio, the city hall and the fountain of Neptune can be found. Arches on the buildings around are also noteworthy. They house nice cafe's and lovely restaurants too.
Piazza Maggiore
San Petronio Basilica
Inside the Basilica
Temple of Neptune
As the name goes, this Basilica is dedicated to the patron saint, Saint Petronius. It is the 10th largest church in the world and is the largest one built on bricks.
After paying my visit, I headed for the exit and saw offers of a panoramic view of the city. Proceeds will go to the continuous restoration of the place. I didn’t want to miss out the chance. So I did. Work was in progress, they explained the situation and made visitors sign a waiver stating the risks associated with riding the elevator to the top (it was some kind of a construction elevator, you can see everything down under your feet) nevertheless, I found it safe despite the scary squeaks and the slow ascent.
And tadaaa… this is the red city.
Red and orangy 😁
It’s the weekend, everyone is out, locals and tourists roam every part of this vibrant and lively city. Even so, it is not crowded. The vibe is very welcoming. With the sweet breeze and the sound of music in the air, oh! La dolce vita!
I walked some more.
Due Torri, Garisenda and Asinelli Towers
If Pisa has a leaning tower, Bologna has two and are named Garisenda and Asinelli. They are the most famous among all the medieval towers in the city and are the symbol of Bologna. All throughout history, amidst the destruction and creation, between the 12th and 13th centuries, there were 180 towers around. Talk about skyscrapers in the modern world, only then they might have used it for defence or to boast how rich they were, you know, that’s what they crazy do here during the medieval ages. 😅
The church near the two towers (due torri) is known as Chiesa dei Santi Bartolomeo e Gaetano. It has about 800 years of history. ⬇️
Church portico
The interior.
More steps and I finally give in to visit some shops.
And then, I saw that restaurant I mentioned earlier and noted to go there for dinner. An hour more and it”ll be open.
After freshening up, I went straight for dinner and as I entered that small restaurant that is almost full (which means it is really good), the waitress with a very loud voice asked me “Buon giorno signorina, for how many people?”
Me : For one please
Waitress : For single? Did you make any resevations? (R emphasized)
Me : No
Waitress : Sorry, for single, No!
😂
Ladies and gentlemen, I just got rejected for dining alone in an Italian restaurant!!!!! 🤣🤣🤣
Kidding aside and being so used to the Italian way of speaking english, the waitress really meant that they can’t give me a table for one because I didn’t call earlier for reservation. Well, they are full and they can’t sacrifice a table for one when 2 people can dine. They don’t know I can eat for 3 😂.
This is one of those trips where I knew so little and expected even less. No research on what to see, just how to get to the city and arrive at my hotel. And I'm glad I kept it that way. Every turn was such a surprise as I explored around. Now here I am, wanting to get back again for the food and for the experience.
Next time, include Bologna in your Italian itinerary. What you see here is just a scratch in the surface, there is absolutely more to discover.
Tata! 😘
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NOTEworthies:
Bologna Centrale Station is the 5th busiest station in central Italy traveling to and from the major cities of the country with connections to other European countries such as Austria, Germany, France and the United Kingdom.
You can get to Bologna by train from the other major cities. Rome is about 4 to 5 hrs away, Florence is 1.5 to 2.5 hrs away, Milan is 2.5 to 3 hrs away, and Venice is 1 hr 45 mins away, all depending on your choice of train, be it high speed or intercity trains with more stops.
If you want a simple yet very convenient place to stay that is in the centre of it all, Albergo delle Drapperie is a good alternative. http://www.albergodrapperie.com/
